Deadly blowfish

Hello hello. Sorry I've been gone so long. One of my New Year's resolutions was to write this more regularly... I guess I'll just have to have a delayed start on that one!

Last week I ate fugu, the potentially lethally poisonous Japanese blowfish, which was rather exciting in a culinary Russian roulette kind of way. The restaurant, in true Japanese style, had a giant plastic model of a blowfish's jaw above the front door, as well as a murky tank full of mean-looking fish in the window. Restaurants here often take the approach of only really serving one kind of cuisine, as that's what everyone will order anyway; while there are plenty of exceptions to that rule, this place only had fuyu on the menu, albeit in lots of guises. We started with some sashimi (raw shreds with pickled radish). Apparently very skilled fugu chefs (who all have to have a special license to serve the fish) leave a smidgeon of poison on the knife they use to cut the fish, as in minute quantities it gives a pleasant buzz to the eating experience. I've heard that, in these cases, your mouth goes numb for a little while and then there's a buzz - worryingly, this is also the first symptom of actual poisoning. I waited for my jaw to lock or something but nothing happened (alas). We then had grilled fish and vegetables - the most exciting thing there was that the heart of the fish (it had been chopped into bits for us) was still beating for a good ten minutes after it was brought to the table. There are few things more disturbing than seeing a fish muscle shudder on a plate in front of you, knowing it is about to be grilled and eaten. It tasted delicious, though, once rigor mortis had set in. There was then a broth-like soup with more fish and vegetables, and finally rice was stirred in to make fish-flavoured congee. The flavour of the fish was peculiar - it had an almost herbal sharpness to it, a little like a mix between basil, juniper and aniseed, but with salty, fishy undertones. It's not my favourite thing ever, but I'm really glad to have tried it and would have it again.

Every so often I notice more of the weird and wonderful things that surround me here. At the end of last term I bought a packet of 'almond fish' - exactly what it says on the label, except they were missing an 'and' - it was a mixture of salted almonds and pungent dried whitebait. There was no hint in the convenience store that this was anything different to the peanuts, pistachios and cashews next to it on the rack. Bizarre. Also spotted in a 'konbini' (convenience store) was a strawberry and cream sandwich, made with white bread and next to the regular tuna salad and ham and cheese options. Finally (for now - I have a feeling this will be a very productive theme to pursue in future posts), there is a small shop - I hesitate even to use the word, it's more a kiosk really, but open to the street, that sells nothing but ukeleles. A man sits on a stool in there, leaving room for one customer, and serenades passers-by with his merchandise. He is incredible. Apparently he sometimes gives lessons if you ask him nicely - I fear my lack of musical talent will stop me from taking him up on that, but I dare say someone else with more musicality could have a go (Will G, Matt, I'm thinking of you in particular...).

Tomorrow I am visiting a high school after my Japanese lessons finish, which should be interesting, and then after that there is the Daiwa New Year party (shinenkai): I will report back on both very soon...